Late Victorian women's fashions demanded very large amounts of fabric, which must have been restricting. The 'New Woman' at the end of the century was in search of new fashions by innovative designers.
Hanover Square became important for mothers dressing their daughters for 'coming out' when Lucile Ltd set up premises there in 1900. Lucile was the professional name of Lady Lucy Duff Gordon, a divorced woman with a child to support, who turned her design talents to dressing the gentlewomen of London. Eventually she had premises in Paris and New York.