"in the vulgar phrase, be crying roast-meat"

A classical dictionary of the vulgar tongue, by Francis Grose, 1785, explains that to cry roast meat is to boast of one’s situation.  Similarly, to rule the roast is to be the master, while roast meat clothes are Sunday clothes or holiday clothes. 

'O the Roast Beef of Old England'
Public Domain'O the Roast Beef of Old England' - Credit: William Hogarth